With the completion of the arms, shoulders and weapons the main painting is complete! All that remains now is for the decals to be applied, some panel lining and a tiny bit of detailing, before the final topcoat (which is as yet undecided, torn between a satin and a matte finish, whatever takes my fancy at the time I guess).
With the decal artwork completed, I just need to wait on printing, so for the meantime the stein will be put on hold.
When I first started out with a couple of “how-to” rattle-can tutorials back in 2012 I had no idea that running a youtube channel would gather so much interest, and introduce me to so many good people in the mecha community.
Having just reached a landmark 1000 subscribers, I would like to thank you all for subscribing, supporting and following along my journey as a mecha modeller 🙂
I will continue to knock out vids weekly as and when I can, be it works-in-progress or the occassional mecha waffle 🙂
Next week should see the completion of the main model, I still need to get the damn decals finished which is proving a much bigger task than I anticipated.. but I think I will certainly finish this in time to meet the July deadline for completion 🙂
Check out the Mecha Lounge here if you are interested in seeing some of the other participants in the build-off, some really cool works in hand!
Tired of sifting though page after page of ad-splattered and confusingly laid-out blogs about all the latest Gunpla and mecha related news?
Tired of going through the teeth-grinding ignorance and troll-like fanboyism of Gundam Guy’s comments system?
Then get yourself feedly! It’s an incredibly simple RSS feed organiser I have been using for years. Use it right in your browser, and it neatly organises all of the latest articles from blogs in one, handy reader. Some of you might already be using an RSS reader and thats cool, but some of you might not be aware, so I thought I would share with you the RSS feeds I have loaded into my feedly, to provide me with my daily-dose of up to date news and model showcases from the best Gunpla and mecha news sources.
Download and install Feedly here: (runs in your browser, and works cross-platform on your mobile too!)
Far be it from me to write such a speculative piece, however the recent rumours started by Japanese bloggers surrounding forthcoming announcements at the Shizuoka model festival in Japan has given rise to my eyebrows.
There appears to be a strong rumour of a 1/60 perfect grade Unicorn coming. The literal holy grail of unicorn fandom, and personally exciting, and possibly very expensive news.
Other speculated items are a new line of 1/100 scale kits simply titled “reborn one hundred” with a current lineup of the Nightingale, Gundam Mk.-III and the very exciting GP-04 Gerbera.
There also appears to be a rumour around a 1/100 hi-nu gundam Ver.Ka. Exciting stuff indeed.
The inner frame is now complete, along with a few brass details and I have moved on to the leg armour parts. Mixed up a rather plush looking deep blue/grey for the bulk of the white parts, looking similar to blue leather in fact. Shading is subtle, but enough, and looking to add very faint hexa patterns in some places to add something a little extra.
Used a technique new to me this time, primed all the parts once, then sanded them all smooth with a wet sheet of 1000 grit sandpaper, primed again and then sanded over with a 1500 grit, came up pretty nice although patchy in places – which should once the topcoat is applied disappear altogether. I will continue this method throughout and refine the technique a little.
I am around.. 70% complete on creating the custom decals. More detail on how it all went in this here video on youtube:
Let’s start off by getting a few things clear before we delve into this. This guide is now I (currently) paint and customise my models. You can use part of this as a beginners guide, however if you are a complete beginner, need something a little more detailed or are finding this a little steep, I highly recommend downloading or purchasing a hard copy of this excellent beginners primer from Monoeye press, the beginners guide to mecha modelling. This guide also assumes you will be comfortable with operating and using an airbrush.
There is no, definitive and widely accepted way to paint and customise your gunpla. The way you paint and customise, will be your journey alone, and you’ll find out over time in the hobby and by interacting with others in the community what works best for you. As explained at the beginning of this article, this is how I paint and customise my Gunpla, and as such should only be taken as one method. The materials and tools I use in this are what is avaiable to me here in the UK. Check out my resources page by clicking here for some handy links for UK modellers.
What follows is a step-by-step on how to paint your gunpla, which can be applied to any class or scale of model.
Let’s start with what tools you’ll need to get started.
Basic building tools:
-Sandpaper (I go for 240 grit, 800, 1000, 1200). Waterproof is the best choice.
-Quality, sharp hobby knife.
Building your model
This part is a piece of cake. Open the instructions, and follow them! Yes, they are in Japanese, but following the pictures should not be any trouble at all. Some people will cut all of the parts off first, then “de-nub” the entire kit (the process of removing the excess plastic attached to the parts, after being cut off the runner), however I tend to build and de-nub at the same time as some parts will need more thorough de-nubbing than others.
I like to completely build my kits before I paint, so I can take a good look at it and understand its movement and design, so help me make the right decisions when it comes to painting the kit. Even if I am building and painting the kit OOB (Out Of Box, refers to the kit being painted the same colour as the parts). With this in mind, be mindful that later down the line you are going to be disassembling the kit. “loose fitting” (some people refer to this as “test fitting“) is a good tactic here, not securely fitting the parts together but just enough for it to hold and be functional. Use common sense here, if you can see a part is going to be very hard to remove later down the line, or you are not confident that you’ll be able to mask-paint it later on, then either leave the part out, or trim down the fitting pegs a little to make it easier to remove.
A lot of the building process requires always thinking about how you are going to handle it later on, so always be mindful of the build as you progress.
Cutting parts from the runners and “de-nubbing”.
Using your side-cutters, cut each part away from the runner, leaving a little excess, like this:
Once the part is free, it’ll look like this:
If you have trouble getting your side cutters in, use a good sharp hobby knife to cut it out, staying well clear of cutting towards yourself. Trim off the excess nubs, leaving a little stub. It’s a good idea to do this rather than trim the lot off, because it will reduce the chance of the plastic stressing and warping.
You’ll want to sand down that last stub, so start off with a low-density sandpaper (I use 240 grit) to completely take off the stub. Once gone, sand over again in increasingly dense grits of sandpaper. You can see the process below. Sticking the sandpaper to a popsickle stick is a really helpful way to keep control of your sand paper, but you can simply fold it.
I do this for each piece as I progress through the instructions. It’s also worth keeping a damp cloth handy, or a large brush to brush off any sand residue.
Stickers and Decals
As you build you’ll notice now and again the instructions will point out the addition of a sticker or decal. If you are going to paint your kit, stickers largely a waste of time, leave them off. The only stickers (if I am feeling lazy) I use are the eye stickers, this saves a lot of time and some seriously precision painting later down the line (or a reverse wash, more on this in a later post). Water-slide decals are normally the first choice to be added to painted kits, if you have them with your kit, great! if not.. then you’ll have to either purchase some official ones for your kit, or look up a third-party supplier. There are a few of them around, one I use most often being samuel decal. Dry-rub transfers are another option too and are commonly found in master grade kits. Although not as easy to apply than water-slides, they look just as good. I’ll cover this too in a later post.
So, that’s the very, very basics covered. Stay tuned for part 2 where we’ll be going over some basic seam line removal techniques, and starting the painting process!
Just a quick update, I have actually managed (remarkably) to get a little work done during the evenings this week, and have completed the base coat of the inner frame in alclad duralanium, and have been masking off a few little parts in the inner frame in that gorgeous polished brass.
It’s not looking as though this one is going to be that detailed in the inner frame, but I think it’ll be enough for a nice display. The problem comes with the plate below the neck and it’s incredibly awkward pipe running below the neck.. i’ll either hand-paint this or just leave it (it’ll likely be covered by the head anyway..).